Greece : Paradise Found

Originally posted March 11, 2004

To those of you fortunate enough to have not been in contact with me from about 8pm Thursday March 4 to Friday afternoon at about 4pm, I will fill you in. Just to set the scene, I had been planning on going to Greece for the spring break week between classes and the internship since the middle of last semester when I received the schedule for this semester. I had thought I would have some others to accompany me, but in the end, people couldn’t get out of class or had friends coming, et cetera. I was disappointed, but as it became clear I would be going by myself, I started to like the idea of a self-propelled vacation, on my own time. So I went through with my planning and designed an itinerary for myself and was genuinely looking forward to my week in Greece. Then I received an e-mail from my internship coordinator that suggested I come home 4 days early on Thursday because she would be on vacation the week I was supposed to start. I didn’t like this idea at all at first, but then it grew on me. Split up my week between Greece (which I will surely come back to and do a more thorough tour of), and hanging out in Paris, which is pretty interesting as far as cities go, so I agreed to come back early in exchange for two days off whenever I want to take them. I bought my airline ticket based on these parameters and rearranged my itinerary so I would have two full days in Athens and two days in Mykonos in the Aegean Sea to relax and be out of the city atmosphere.

After Prague, I studied hard in preparation for finals and managed to find time to pack as well. Thursday morning I took my last two exams and then I hung out at the center until it was time to go. I left two full hours for me to get to the airport, but traffic was completely stopped on Paris’ version of the beltway, the “périphérique”, and I ended up getting to the airport 5 minutes before my flight was scheduled to leave. I was already freaking out at this point so I ran over to the ticket window, they gave me a “you’ll never make it but here ya go” look and I went to check-in window which was about to close and shoved my ticket in their face. She asked me if I had baggage and I said no, then she gave me my ticket and told me to run to the gate. I did, all the way across the airport to Satellite 6, and found to my relief that they were still boarding. (I learned throughout the trip that Olympic Airlines is NEVER on time, count on at least a 20 minute delay.) I went over to the window at the gate and she was in the process of checking me in when she called the window downstairs and they told me that I couldn’t get on the flight because my name wasn’t in the system. Heartbroken, I stood there saying that was impossible because my ticket which I had in my hand said “confirmed” on it and that there must be a mistake. They searched around a little more but ended up sending me back to the window downstairs dejected.

I tried to find out what the problem was but no one had any answers and I went home totally disappointed, exhausted, and confused. My host mom was really great when I came back. She got really mad and sided with me and told me how the French get mad and that I shouldn’t have left the airport until I was on a flight to Greece. Her irate reaction to the way I was treated made me feel a little better, but I was still pretty sure my vacation was over before it started. The next morning I woke up around 8am to my host mom telling me to get up and start calling people and demanding answers. No one gets to their office until at the earliest 9:15 in France, even though the official start is 9am. I had three calls in to the company I purchased my ticket through by 9:30. No one responded to me so I had to keep calling back. I got nowhere. Finally, at noon, my host mom comes back and sees that I’m still there. She gets her sister, who works for Air France, on the phone and starts telling her what the situation is, seeing if there’s anything she can do. That gets me nowhere but still, it’s nice to know she’s on my side and doing what she can. Finally I decide just to go to the airport with all my stuff and hope that they find a solution while I’m there.

I do this and on the way I find that I have 7 messages on my phone which it had failed to notify me about during the last two weeks. Sometimes it does that, and it couldn’t have picked a worse time to hide my messages from me. There was a message that explained that Olympic had changed my flight because the one I was originally on was full and they cut me because I paid a reduced fare. I was beginning to think that maybe I was not supposed to go to Greece. All these factors and bad events in a row, people dropping out, flights cancelled and changed, no one calling me back… am I not taking the hint? So I get in touch with this guy and he goes to work on my situation. I get a call back in a half hour telling me I’m on the flight to Athens at 7:15 that night. Well, good. One day less in Athens won’t kill me but I was still rather peeved with the lack of effort and bad communication on the part of the company. I made a note to write a letter when I returned. I switched from stress and business mode to vacation mode.

Athens and Mt. Lycavittos in the distance

So I finally get on my flight and head off to Athens. It leaves about a half hour late, I was convinced it wasn’t going to take off and then I was just going to give up completely. I got to Athens around midnight with the time change. I went immediately to my hostel in the center of Plaka which is right at the foot of the Acropolis and two blocks from Hadrian’s Arch, prime location. The guy was nice and set me up in a room at a slightly reduced price. I met some of the people in the room and then drifted to sleep with Van Morrison playing to drown out the worst snoring I have EVER heard in my life. I can’t do it justice with words but it would be one long, earth-shaking intake then he sort of choked on it, stayed silent for a full minute, then let it out in a long drawn-out sigh. Fortunately, I was tired enough that I fell asleep with the help of Van’s smooth sounds after about 2 tracks, I think. I I woke up the next morning early and took a run in the national gardens which are under renovation, but still made me feel like I was in a tropical paradise and the sprawling metropolis of Athens wasn’t less than 10 meters away. Then I headed out for a day of hardcore sightseeing. I had to make sure I saw everything in one day because this was my only full day in the city. I started with the Acropolis. I hiked up sort of a back way which the hostel guy told me about and it was definitely off the beaten path and a more difficult climb but I got to go through a seldom-seen portion of the town and see some old Greek architecture on my way up. Halfway up, I got a good vantage point on Athens in its entirety. It’s so much bigger than I imagined. It seems like it never ends. There are just endless apartment complexes, as far as the eye can see. Only the Acropolis, Mt. Lycavittos, and the mountains off in the distance give relief from the suburban landscape. So Athens, I decided, is not beautiful. But then I don’t ever recall it having a reputation as being so.

The Acropolis

Odeon (theater) at the Acropolis

The Acropolis was impressive, and it was free much to my surprise. Due to the hugely important national elections the next day, everything would be closed so they made it free on Saturday. I walked around on stones that have been trodden on by feet for thousands of years, looked at the Parthenon and Athena’s temple which I recalled from my 5th grade textbook and the unit on classical civilization. There’s also an ancient amphitheater, an Odeon rather, whose mosaic floor and incredible acoustics are still very much in tact. It was impressive to say the least.

I will take a moment now to explain Greece’s political situation because it directly affected my trip numerous times. Greece is a democracy in which the vote is compulsory and you are fined if you do not vote on Election Day. The next day, Sunday, the national elections for Prime Minister were to take place and they were so important because the conservatives were slated to win, thus ending the 25 year reign of the socialist party. I’m sure you all heard about this, but it was interesting to be there in the midst of it. Walking around the city there were news crews and police guards everywhere. They were preparing for riots and celebrations the next day. One of the main concerns of the new Prime Minister is to be obviously, the Olympic Games to be held in their birthplace this summer. The whole world has its eyes on Greece because they don’t think it will be ready in time. Having seen the state of the city and heard the plans to be realized between now and August, I have to agree. The Parthenon is half missing and half under scaffolding. The Temple of Athena is about the same with many of its stones removed for restoration.

I made my way over to the Agora which is in pretty good shape. I saw the Hephaesteion which is a temple that overlooks the ancient market places that boasts the most intact friezes of the ancient world. They depict the feats of Hercules. They are so detailed and to actually see something so ancient that people back then created makes you wonder about the great myths, were they real? The rest of the Agora is lovely green spaces and ancient ruins of columns and cobblestone paths. It was again incredible to walk around and imagine life as it might have been 2500 years ago.

Hephaesteion Temple

After the Agora, I left to walk up through the center of town to the National Archeological Museum which is said to be the glue for all the historical sites. I walked up through the town, through the flea market, then encountered another marker of a different type, a wholesale meat market. The floor had fresh blood on it and some of the cuts I walked past had not been fully skinned yet. Some of the animals still had heads, eyes and teeth. Basically, if you ever needed a reason to be a vegetarian, this is it and then some. I was creeped out but also intrigued *. All the vendors, while hacking away at their victims with large knives, were telling me in Greek how good the produce was and yelling prices. At least, I think they were. I exited after I felt I had had all I could stomach then made my way up to the museum. It is closed for renovations until May. I started to curse the Olympic Games.

Olympic Stadium

After that disappointing turn of events, I walked back across town to see the ancient Olympic Stadium and shake my fist at it. When I did see it and imagined it full of people in the August heat watching the marathon runners enter and cross the finish line at the height of exhaustion and also at the height of their athletic existence, I stopped cursing the Olympic Games. I decided to rest at the hostel for a half hour, then go explore Plaka. I felt refreshed after my little break and wound my way through the maze of marble streets past shop vendors and people selling Olympic merchandise. Never too early to make a buck I guess. I bought a cheap, ultra-touristy t-shirt as has become my custom and then decided I would walk to the Academy to see where Socrates and Plato professed their genius, then climb Mt. Lycavittos to watch the sun set. The Academy is right smack in the center of the city and you’d take it for a municipal building in neo-classical style if you didn’t see it on the map marked as a historical landmark. There are statues of the great thinkers that started the school and continued it and I thought of Raphael’s “School of Athens” that I saw in Rome in November. I found myself in the canvas, instead of staring at it.

The Academy

Then I started the climb to the top of the mountain. It took me about a half hour to get up the many switchbacks (they are paved, it’s not rugged) which are at perilous inclines. I got to the top and was about knocked over by the wind. I took shelter in St. George’s church at the top, then at the café that overlooks the eastern half of Athens. I had a tea to warm up then decided to go out and brave the cold wind and try to see the sun set. It was too cloudy to get a good view but it reconfirmed the great expanse of the city. I looked towards the port where I would catch my ferry at 7:40 am the next day to Mykonos. I then climbed back down the mountain, accompanied by a stray dog who I was more annoying than endearing and I was crossing streets at rather daring points in time hoping he would either be dumb and follow or be deterred. He was pretty sneaky and managed to stay with me halfway to the hostel, but finally I walked past a cat and while he was distracted with his growling, I managed to slip away. In retrospect, it was a pretty fun game.

I went back to the hostel and met that night’s roommates. The snorer was still there but he turned but to be an archeologist so when he’s awake he’s probably the most interesting person you could find to talk to in Athens. He told us all about what they’re doing and the projects for the Acropolis and how he doesn’t think they will finish either. Basically, the Olympics gave Athens the chance to start all the restoration work that it has badly needed, but the jobs it has to complete are 20 year long projects if they are to be done properly and thoroughly. The other two roommates were girls, one an American studying in Florence, the other an Australian who is teaching English as a Second Language in England. I ended up going out to dinner with the two girls and we got along quite well. The Australian was a riot, as I have found most of them to be, and the American was smart with a dry sense of humor. I had a Greek salad which lived up to expectations. I lived on Greek yoghurt, honey, tea, and Greek salad the entire trip. The yoghurt completely blew me away. Better than I have found in France, much to my dismay. I thought I had the best of the best here. After dinner, we got some fresh baklava and was that

The Parthenon (under construction)

good! The pastry melts away quickly and lets the nutty, warm, cinnamon gooey sweetness invade much to the taster’s delight. After dessert, we all went back to the hostel, chatted some more with the archeologist/snorer and then went to bed. I had to be up at 5:30 to be at the ferry in time.

I have to say that Athens impressed me, but I was glad to leave. I felt like I had done all there was to do and the city was so big and noisy and pushy, I wanted to get out. I felt crowded all the time, even in low season. I don’t want to imagine around the Olympics.

Mykonos windmills

I caught the metro out to the Pireaus Port the next morning at about 6am and the youth of Athens still had not gone to bed. They were hanging out in the streets having a great time while I was lugging my bag out to the metro. I boarded my gigantic ferry, sat in a comfortable armchair by the window, and then went to sleep. I woke back up at around 11am. The ferry was completely full because everyone in Greece has to return to the town of their birth to vote. Most people got off at the first port of call, I enjoyed looking out the window at the islands passing by. We arrived at the Mykonos port just before 1pm and the owner of the hostel I was staying at was there waiting to pick me up. I was so grateful to see her. She took me back to the hostel which was on the other side of the island, about a 20 minute walk from the town where all the touristy stuff is. It was all closed anyway, being election day, so I just chilled out in my room enjoying the view of the beach. I went on a run which was tough because of all the steep hills but definitely beautiful, each turn giving on to a new vantage point of rocky cliffs, rolling green pastures, or the electric blue Aegean Sea. I watched CNN in English and got caught up on the election polls and the significance of the election. The rest of the channels were in Greek. I met the girls staying in the room next door and we went to the Taverna next door for dinner. I again had Greek Salad and it was just as good as the night before. I had tea with honey to finish the meal and the honey was delicious. I didn’t know it was so good in Greece but I ate it for the next few meals with plain yoghurt which my hostess at the hotel told me to do. I was happy I took her advice.

White stucco buildings lining Mykonos streets

The next morning I got up, went running in the cool morning air and then went into town with one quest in mind: rent a scooter. I successfully found a place open and rented a little one for 24 hours. If the tour of Dublin was the best 8 euros I ever spent, then this was definitely the best 10 I’ve ever spent**. I spent the next two hours tearing around the island winding through the hills, climbing high to edge of cliffs, then plunging down the steep hills to drive along the beach roads. It was so FUN to jet along in the sun with the wind in my face. I was having the time of my life stopping off and taking pictures whenever I wanted, exploring the far reaches of the island, going on the narrow roads where cars can’t. I decided to take a break and go explore the touristy part of town. I walked through the streets amidst blindingly white stucco structures of two or three stories, with shutters and trim to match the sea that they look out on. I climbed a hill and found the famous windmills and “little Venice”. I walked through the heart of the business district and chatted with some shop owners who were making final touches to their boutiques before they open for tourist season just before Easter. Most everything was closed and I felt like the only tourist on the island. It was perfect for the relaxation and the escape I was looking for. That night I rode my scooter back to the hotel and watched the sunset from my balcony which, in and of itself, was worth the entire trip, Charles de Gaulle hell and all. I watched some more CNN, the results and recap of the elections (conservatives took the vote, much to the delight of most of the population) then went to bed.

Me and my scooter

The next morning, my last morning in Mykonos, I soaked up the scenery in the early morning, read a little bit while listening to the sounds of the ocean from my window and feeling the breeze blow in through the open windows, then took off for one last go on the mo-ped. I went everywhere I hadn’t been the day before, had a few encounters with scary hills and cars, but made it through unscathed. I then visited all the beaches on my side of the island, walked along them, waded in them (the water was like ice), and then returned to the hotel to pack up. I followed my host mom in her car down to the port, she carried my bags and I rode the mo-ped in to return it. I really hated to let it go. I probably shouldn’t admit this, but I took my picture with it. I boarded the ferry around 1:45pm and settled in for the 5 hour ride back to Athens. It passed pretty quickly. I disembarked and headed back to Plaka. I settled back into the hostel I was in before and then walked around for a little bit before everything closed. The shop owners wait outside and try to get you to come in. Anything I bought I was able to bargain down at least a few bucks, except food.

Aegean Sea from the hills of Mykonos

Mykonos Port

I spent the night at the hostel and woke up early for one last foray into the National Gardens before heading to the airport. I got there in plenty of time, caught my flight and headed back to Paris, where I am now. It is snowing, it is cold, and I want to go back to Mykonos. When (not if) I go back to Greece, I am looking forward to spending very little time in Athens and seeing more countryside and hopefully more islands. I would also probably go in September so it was still warm but with less tourists. I have to say that the trip was certainly a mix of ups and downs but it was all worth it for the time I had in Mykonos and for the opportunity to see all the ancient wonder that is housed in Athens. I also like the fact of seeing pre-Olympics Athens, rather raw, but real. I didn’t get bored or too lonely by myself. I really enjoyed making my own agenda and stopping whenever I wanted. It was also pretty lucky that no one else had to be subjected to the horrors of the flight there. All in all, I’m a little tanner, little wiser about internet ticket buying, and a devoted fan of scooters and the Aegean Sea.

I start the internship officially on Monday though tomorrow is my first day to “learn the ropes” so to speak. I am looking forward to it. Then I have three days to do some stuff in Paris in which I am hoping to get the Chinese art exhibit at the Grand Palais and maybe a play or movie or two. Hope everyone’s doing well. Talk to you again soon!

*That message about having a deeper connection with your food and where it comes from now has a much greater meaning to me and I realize how silly it is that my meat consumption was so desensitized. Then, I didn't think anything about where it came from or what I was even eating.

** I guess even then a motorcycle license was in the cards for me.